How to build a grow box? – Step by Step
An indoor grow tent may help you prolong the life of your garden beyond the end of the natural growing season in your area. With a grow tent, you may sow your seeds earlier, keep your plants alive beyond the first frost, and enjoy fresh herbs in the dead of winter.
Indoor grow tents are adaptable constructions that you build up within your house to customize the growth conditions. To enhance light reflection and avoid hot spots, the tent inside is coated with polyester film (Mylar) or a material called Visqueen. Because you keep a grow tent inside your home, it naturally prevents pests like aphids and hornworms away from your plants. You won’t have to take the danger of applying chemical pesticides, which may be dangerous if consumed.
Grow tents come in a variety of sizes and configurations, each with its own set of characteristics designed to make growing simpler for your plants and gardening simpler for you. What features do you require? Continue reading to find out more. When you’re ready to purchase, take a look at our top picks for the finest indoor grow tents on the market.
What size should your grow tent be?
Size is the most crucial aspect to consider when looking for grow tents: the size of your room and the size of the plants you wish to grow. If you’re going to install your indoor grow tent in a tiny area, go for something narrow and tall to save space. Tents stored in a family room or other living area must be able to fit without becoming an annoyance. Space may not be a problem if your tent is placed in a basement.
Unless you want to use your tent only as a greenhouse for incubating seeds, you need also consider the final size of your plants.
What fabric should you use?
Because the primary function of a grow tent is to reflect light onto your plants, the backing should be of excellent quality to assist keep the light inside. Canvas, oxford cloth, or other thick, dark fabric is often used to make grow tents. Panda film is also ideal. This contrast makes it easier to observe whether light is escaping. However, ideally, you should get something that collects as much light as possible.
These tents are utilized mostly for persons who raise crops produced for individual use for high dollars. For any industrial purpose, growing tents are too tiny.
As tents become so tiny and secluded, they are largely free of insects and disease.
It is both cost-effective and fairly easy to create your own DIY grow tent. In fact, it is possible to learn how to build a grow tent cheap.
How to build DIY PVC Grow tent?
There are, however, some questions you may need to consider. First, are you going to use wood, PVC, or some other material for your DIY grow tent? There are definite pros and cons to using these materials to build your grow tent. The video below will help explain how to build a grow tent cheap, using PCV materials.
The guy making the above video had purchased an LED light and needed a grow tent in which to put it. As his video shows, you can learn how to build an indoor grow tent with PVC.
Read More: Best Full-Spectrum LED Grow Lights
The pros of using PVC tubes and corners are numerous. Firstly, PVC is more cost-effective than wood. You can purchase everything you need for a fair price at places like Lowe’s or Menards.
Another great advantage of PVC is that it’s very simple to construct. You don’t have to do a lot of hammering or worry about nails and screws. If you know how to complete a puzzle or work with connecting tubes, you can build a PVC grow tent. You only need some corners, some Ts, and a cross. The third advantage of PVC is that it is lightweight. As the creator of the video showed, the frame was easy to pick up with just one hand, meaning you can transport it with no problem.
A final advantage is that it is flexible enough for you to take it apart and add more parts to expand it if needed. With wood, it would probably be a great deal more difficult to take it apart to enlarge it for your growing needs.
In the first video, you saw how to put the frame of your grow tent together using PVC. Now, let’s take a look at how to complete the construction of the tent in the video below.
You can use panda film as a covering for your tent. Where can you buy panda film? Amazon, Walmart, or Home Depot carry it. It would be prudent to check all three places and price the film to make sure you get the most for your money. You would measure how much of the film you need based on the frame and stretch it fully over the frame.
Visqueen vs. Mylar or white paint
There are a few materials that are often used in making the tent reflective enough for the light to benefit the plants. There is Visqueen and mylar or even plain white paint.
The benefits of Visqueen are that it holds its reflectivity over time. Mylar is quite reflective, maybe even more so than Visqueen but it will lose that reflectivity over time. White paint is used because it yields high reflectivity as well. But as it is painted, it can become dull and you might need a fresh coat. Painting is also an extra hassle you may not have time for if you are on a time frame.
How do you access your tent?
After stretching your panda film over the PVC frame, you will want to use electrical or duct tape. Do you want to create an opening like a door in which you open it sideways? Or maybe you would rather have a flap that you can just hang over the top?
Whatever you decide, you should decide what type of opening you want before you begin building your tent.
The Visqueen or mylar material is highly reflective and will block a great deal of the light attempting to escape your tent. You can add to the light-blocking features by using a zipper with a black lining. This adds to the light proofing seal and means you don’t need to fool with additional flaps or tapes.
Wipe your zippers or use a clean toothbrush to avoid dirt and debris from being lodged in the teeth or track. If a zipper becomes stuck, a tiny quantity of wax or spray lubrication may assist. Always be careful with your zippers, particularly if they are stuck.
Managing the heat in your grow tent
There is probably nothing more challenging in the building and developing of your grow tent than how to manage its heat. A good rule of green thumb is that plants thrive best in temperatures that we ourselves find ideal. So, between 65 and 80 degrees is best. If it gets much hotter than 85, plants may begin weakening and their nutritional intake will decrease, making them vulnerable to extreme conditions and diseases.
If it gets too cold (much under 35 degrees Fahrenheit) Water may freeze within the cells of a plant, forcing it to swell and harm the plant from within. Cold weather destruction is much worse in younger plants, which haven’t matured in vigor and shape to enable cell tissue development.
Water may freeze the exterior of a plant as well as the soil around it, producing something known as desiccation, which is a removal of moisture from the plant, thus interfering with the plant’s water supply. Because plants emit enzymes to break down surrounding elements for soil, this disturbs plant nutrition uptake. Avoid early morning sunlight. Frost and cold weather damage may occur as a consequence of plants rapidly ‘defrosting,’ leading them to become limp.
How to create a quality ventilation system
Always make sure to keep air circulating in your grow tent. Excellent ventilation greatly improves the quality of the health of your plants. When the heated lights are turned on, you should recycle the air in the tent at least every 5-8 minutes, and even more often if your atmosphere is valiantly struggling to manage heat or humidity. Furthermore, it is critical to circulate the air inside your tent. This will reduce heat and smells, as well as strengthen plants.
Read More: Best grow tent Ventilation Kit
Consider a removable floor tray. It will collect any leaves, dirt, water, or any unwanted debris, which keeps you from having to keep your tent door open too long for cleaning sessions. Leaving the door open too long may compromise the health of your plants.
Quickly patch up any holes and repair any torn patches or frays in your grow tent’s fabric. These holes, even tiny ones can cause a considerable amount of light to escape, minimizing the tent’s effectiveness. Also, those tiny holes are huge doors for unwanted six-legged pests.
If you have plants that are climbers, consider using string trellises as opposed to metal ones. If your homemade tent ever shifts or moves suddenly, a metal trellis might cause tears in it.
If using PVC material for your frame, make doubly sure to keep the temperature at an acceptable level as this material has been known to release gases at high temps that can compromise plant integrity.
Building and maintaining a grow tent may take a little work but it is far more than worth the effort in terms of the many joyful hours you will reap in seeing your plants thrive and eventually provide you with food and pleasing visuals.
How to build DIY wooden Grow Box?
Step 1: Materials
Depending on the size you want the box to be, there are a variety of materials available. The box in this example was 33″ tall x 18.5″ wide x 18″ deep to house small plants and those that would reach a maximum height of around 24″. If you wish to construct larger, add more supplies below. No specific tools are required; simply a drill, circular saw, knife, square, and tape measure will do. If you’re unfamiliar with electrical stuff, a multi-meter might come in handy.
Common 1/4 plywood (1 x sheet)
Cooling fans (x2)
Thermostat & Speed Controller (1)
about 8′ of 1″ x 2″ for the basic frame
Wood Screws .25″ (6) for Hinges
Wood Screws 1″ estimate (30)
Underfloor Heating Foil / Foil Tape / Simply Aluminum Foil
1-1.25″ Deep Handy Utility Box (3)
24″ Red 14 Guage Electrical Wire
24″ Black 14 Guage Electrical Wire
24″ Green/White 14 Guage Electrical Wire
Wire nuts, a couple
Electrical Wire 3 prong (I used one from an old appliance I had but I am sure Lowes has them cheap)
1″ x 2″ x 6′ (1) not needed but I did use it to cover seams between cuts like on top and above the door
Electrical outlet (1)
Light switch (1)
Plus and minus using basic creativity.
Step 2: Frame It Out
Frame a cube roughly depending on how big you want it. To keep the box from swaying, I braced up the corners.
Step 3: Step Three: Add the Sides, Door, Top, and Bottom.
I simply measured what was required and then cut it. I installed the left, right, rear, and bottom hinges. The front is divided into two sections: one for the door and one for the hinges. There are two detachable parts on top: one for adjusting the light and viewing area in the front, and another for accessing the power switches.
Step 4: Step Four: Reflective Material
Whatever is easiest or comes to hand, add it now. I used some Underfloor Heating Foil that I had on hand and applied it to as many surfaces as possible to retain heat, reflect light, and seal the box’s interior from moisture. At last, I ran out of Underfloor Heating Foil, so I utilized aluminum foil instead for the inside of the door.
Step 5: Step Five: Fans Holes
For the fans, I used some common fans used in entertainment centers to keep ones X-Box and such cool. I bought a kit with two fans and one thermostat that I could program to come on and shut off at predetermined temperatures. The particular kit I used was simply a plug and play using a USB with no wiring required but I did find out the wires ran a little short thus some wires are seen inside of the box when my original plan was to run all wires on the outside.
Simple enough, however big the fans are make a round hole on the bottom back corner of one side about 6″ from the bottom to serve as the cool air intake. Create the second hole in the opposite side in the top front of the box to serve as the warm air exhaust.
Step 6: Step Six: Sand/Stain
Yes, of course, you may do this whenever you want, but before installing cables and fans, it might make more sense to sand and stain now. I was not attempting to look nice in the photo; rather, I felt that some water resistance would be beneficial.
Step 7: Step Seven: Electrical
Install the fans, intake fan on the bottom should be facing in allowing it to suck in outside air and push it into the box. The exhaust fan should be facing out pulling air out of the box.
In this project, I used the light switch as the master control for the whole unit.
Junction Box and Power Supply:
All wires are centralized here and this is where I hooked up the power cable.
Simple enough, a power outlet for my Thermostat and an extra outlet for a secondary light or whatever.
When I was installing the thermostat, I put a small probe into the electrical box. You can adjust where it is by taking it out of the box.
I drilled a small hole in the front of the box to allow electricity for my lights to come out. I used two lag bolts and a three-outlet light socket for three HE lights that use 45 watts of power well below the estimated max of the box. LED grow lights are more expensive, but they give you lots of reward and they also burn at a lower temperature than other types.
Once you figure out the plant you want to put in there and required temperature ranges, program the thermostat and you are all done.
Step 8: Step Eight: Final Touches and Grow
I found a little hook and made it work as in the picture.
Plants, so far this seems to work best for already developed small plants, and lighting seems to be responsible for 99% of my problems with plants getting leggy.
I have had no problems with being too hot or too cool. The lights warm the box up and once they hit my programmed temperature, the fans kick on blow some cool air, move the plants around a little, and about a minute later the fans cut off.
I have had issues with drying out. I have found the fans pick up the water and take it away so this system will likely be best with some type of drip irrigation system, frequent checks (daily or every other day), or hydroponic system. In the near future, I am going to insert LED lights and use a homemade hydro system and test that out.
How to Build a Grow Room?
Choose a Location
After you’ve decided how big your grow room should be, you’ll need to choose where it should be. This is (as with all other aspects) entirely up to you: a garage, attic, or basement may all become a grow room. Even a large enough closet can suffice! however, there are certain elements that the area you have chosen absolutely requires. These are
- An electrical outlet;
- A water supply that is not too far away. If you are not worried about carrying full buckets of water to your plants, then this should not be a problem.
- A floor without carpets, or with floors made of wood or tiles.
- Your grow room should be in a space that does not disrupt other people. It might include noisy things and you don’t want to disturb your neighbors or yourself.
- A place to put an exhaust fan and a vent so that your house can have good air.
Basement or cellar. Temperatures are warmer underground, so you can be confident that your plants will stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. If all else fails, consider utilizing a “room within a room” option, or grow box/tent if at all feasible.
Before you start building your grow room, it’s a good idea to measure everything. It will save you time, space, and money. A little bit of proactive thinking may go a long way in the growth process. On paper, scale the space and decide where the lights, vents/exhausts, miscellaneous electrical supplies, and plants will be placed. Also, don’t forget to include an entryway and mark out water supply routes (assuming you won’t be carrying the water to your plants yourself). Simple things that can help you build a functional and practical grow room.
It is important to note that your plant(s) will almost double in size when they go from the vegetative to the flowering stage.
Cleaning does not only imply sweeping, mopping, and vacuuming. Before you start cleaning, make sure to get rid of all the clutter from the area you plan to convert into your grow chamber. Because carpets and textiles retain dust, mildew, and other pests, they are especially vital to remove from the space. It’s time to disinfect and thoroughly check your room now that you’ve gotten rid of all of the needless things.
Before you start construction, you should clean out the designated space thoroughly. Keeping it clean must become your top priority. An unclean growing room places the plants under a lot of strain and raises the danger of fungal infection, mold, and sicknesses that can rapidly destroy entire crops. We can’t emphasize this enough: do not allow mold or dust pile up in any part of the room.
It’s also important to keep your beloved pets as far away from your plants as possible. You don’t want your crops damaged by your cat’s curiosity or the dog’s clumsiness, and besides, they’re more than simply nuisances: they spread germs and bacteria that can infect your plants and cause harm during the harvest process. It is a good idea to disinfect your grow room before and after starting a new growth cycle.
To ensure that you won’t encounter any latent parasites or germs in future crops, clean the entire place with some sort of disinfectant.
Finally, plants produce waste on their own. Dead leaves and excess vegetation might harm your crop. Do not overlook them, because they might cause fungus and mold to grow on your plants.
Decide on the Growing Medium
Soil is the traditional method and it is what is best suited for newbies. You can pick it up from practically everywhere and it is cheap as dirt (mainly because it essentially is dirt). However, you should bear in mind that soil buckets coming in and out of your house might seem sketchy, especially if you live in a crowded area. You can also use compost as a great nutrient supply for your soil setup.
- Soil-less media, such as coco-coir, rock wool, expanded clay, and so on, are usually lighter and provide the plant more breathing room, but they do not retain nutrients. Instead of that, you must feed your plants with liquid nutrients and manually add them to your container (don’t overdo it—it’s easy to burn your plants). Soil-free mediums are typically costlier than soil-based ones. The technique of growing hydroponically is anything but simple. There are a variety of options to explore. Many growers claim that hydroponic crops are more powerful, faster, and yield more than those produced conventionally.
Pros: Faster and bigger yields;
- Healthier for the plants;
- No need for transplanting your seedlings after vegetation;
- Better quality buds.
Cons: Easier to overfeed and burn;
- More expensive in all aspects;
- More difficult to set up.
Containers and Pots
Although containers can often be overlooked when we are growing plants, they are still important. It could help to spend some time choosing the right container for your plants. After all, they will be the house for your plants for their whole life.
A container, in general, maybe nearly anything that allows for water drainage at the bottom. If you can, make room for your plants to grow freely. Bigger roots equal larger plants and more abundant harvests. Choose the biggest container you to grow area permits.
The most popular buckets are the 5-gallon variety, although 15 and 25-gallon versions are not uncommon. It is preferable if you can locate buckets with simple handling, however it is something of an investment to make. There’s a lot of walking up and down, so an added expenditure might save your back in the long run!
Read More: Best Hydroponic BUCKET System
Building the Grow Room
So, all you have to do now is finish the first step! You’ve decided where you want to set up your initial grow area, and you’ve received the blueprints. It’s time to get our hands dirty now that we’ve covered the basics. By “our,” of course, we mean yours.
Light-proofing the Room
The first step you should take is to ensure that your growing room is completely and utterly light-proof.
Confused? Allow me to explain: when your plants’ life starts, it expects that the sunlight period is much more than the darkness period. As the seasons progress, sunlight decreases and the plant realizes that the time for flowering comes. You must frequently check your crop and make sure to eliminate any males that may grow here and there. Generally, you can easily do that at the later stages of the vegetative stage. Also, be sure not to forget to cover any tiny blimps that the electronic devices you use. Even this negligible amount of light can confuse your plants as they have a natural tendency to stretch out to light. Indoor varieties are even more prone to these fluctuations, as they are far more sensitive (there is no moonlight in controlled environments).
Mylar and reflective material
When you’re sure no light from the outside is leaking into your room, keep in mind that your plants require an equal amount of illumination. The proper reflection of light is crucial for plant performance. Plants are essentially made up of light. As a result, it’s critical to provide as much direct light to them as possible. When extra light is reflected back at the plants, they have the opportunity to use more of it because it would otherwise be “lost.” Covering your grow area’s walls with reflecting material also ensures that none of the plants are left in the dark.
Covering your walls with reflective material can offer many advantages. If you do it correctly, the amount of usable light is multiplied by at least 30%, leading to healthier plants. How to properly cover your walls with reflective material
- The material must stay flat. Wrinkles and creases disrupt the reflection of light;
- Try to soften the edges and try to avoid sharp angles as they tend to hold light;
- Keep your reflective material absolutely clean;
- Try to spread your reflective material on something smooth, if your wall is somewhat rough, try to use Velcro on it first and then proceed.
This cloth is made of a plastic that is more expensive than the film. It is more durable and easy to maintain. The cloth reflects nearly 95% of light and about 90% of heat energy. Make sure your ventilation system works well before you buy this type of material!
Mylar is the most popular choice among growers. It comes in two sizes (1mm and 2mm). Mylar is harder to clean but it reflects more light than foylon. If you are using mylar, use the 2mm version because it’s hard to wrinkle.
Matte white paint
Flat white paint is an excellent choice if you want to turn a large section of your home into a permanent indoor setup. It’s also an excellent choice for warmer rooms since it absorbs a lot of heat and reflects almost 80% of the light energy.
It’s a wonderful short-term option that can be simply wiped away. It gets its name from the white and black color scheme (white on one side, black on the other). The idea is that the white side reflects light while the black one absorbs it during your dark periods. However, if you keep it too far away from your lighting, it will melt. Its reflectivity measures to around 80%. For optimum results, choose the 6mm variant.
Orca Grow Films
Orca Grow films are similar to panda plastic. They have a lot of good features. They are thicker, easier to clean and mold resistant. This makes them better than panda plastic because they use a complex crystalline reflective system that distributes light evenly at about 90-95% reflectivity.
Even if it is simple to adjust, the smell of your plants may become overpowering for guests and neighbors. Your plants’ fragrance will become more intense as they mature, becoming so bothersome that it can lead straight to your grow room. If stealth is a concern, invest in a good odor control system. A carbon filter or a deodorizer in your grow room would be a fantastic idea. To get the most out of it, do both.
For your grow room, an air humidifier may be a smart investment. They are very popular and inexpensive. They also have built-in hygrometers that can show the humidity levels in the area. Being able to control the humidity of your grow room with a single button might save you a lot of time. One of the components that influences how fast your plant absorbs nutrients is humidity. Too low humidity levels can impede nutrient absorption. However, high levels may cause mold and insect issues.
Different humidity levels are required for your plants at various stages of growth, and if you do it correctly, you’ll get higher yields as a result. Changing the humidity in big grow rooms might be difficult, but this is a more difficult problem.
It is critical to provide adequate fresh air in a grow room. It automatically addresses issues such as overheating and ventilation, so you’ll never have to worry about them again. You’ll need some oscillating fans and overhead exhaust ducts to guide the hot air out while maintaining effective airflow within your grow room (remember to install a carbon filter first!). Keep that in mind when designing your grow room and be generous with the ceiling space, since you’ll also need to accommodate the lights.
If you want your crop to grow properly, you must maintain a proper level of air circulation. Stability is important to plants and they will thrive in a well-ventilated area. Consider how many plants you wish to cultivate and the amount of air required before beginning growing. Place the exhaust fan at the top of the room so it may pull as much air as possible away from it. Make sure that your input fans are smaller than your exhaust vent.
Pointing your oscillating input fans towards the grow lights can help with temperature problems, according to some growers. Horizontal airflow fans might be helpful in further reducing temperatures and humidity levels.
A good rule of thumb is to make sure you have 450CFM of ventilation. This will work for 1000W HID lighting. If you plan on growing larger crops, it might be a good idea to use more ventilation.
Read More: How to ventilate a grow room?
The temperature in your grow room should be around 72-80ºF (20-25°C) at all times. You want to make sure that the temperature changes by no more than 10 degrees, so it is always between 20 and 25°C. If the temperature is too high, plants can die. If it is too low, plants will get diseases.
If you have no central heating system, you need a ground A/C unit. The size of the unit should be relative to how big your room is. You also need to think about lights, insulation and how well the air circulates in your room.
It is hard to know when you are at the sweet spot. But you will be there eventually. Pay attention to the temperature levels. You need a thermometer. Lights cause most of the heat, so make sure that your lights are not too close to anything that needs room for air.
In a well-insulated grow room, you’ll need 3750BTUs of air conditioning power for every 1000W of lighting. This estimate includes additional sources of heat such as CO2 generators and ballast heat. If you have the money, invest in a powerful, high-quality A/C unit that can be run at a higher setting than the one you’re looking for. In situations like these, it’s safer to be safe than sorry. Furthermore, there is a large range of A/C units to select from and some market research might pay off.
The amount of lights you’ll need is determined by the size of your grow room. In such situations, the golden ratio is 600 Watts for every 5 sq. ft. When considering one factor, don’t forget to consider the other two. LEDs generate heat. The more heat there is in a system, the greater number of fans are required to keep it cool. However, there are several sorts of lights with various benefits and drawbacks. You will be offered these alternatives most of the time because there are so many different types of lighting available today that 99 percent
- High-Pressure Sodium (HPS)
- Metal Halide (MH)
Pros: Efficient (HPS), Simple to Use
Cons: Can get very hot, energy-consuming, need to use replacements ofte
- LED Light
Pros: Built-in cooling, plug ‘n’ play, full Light Spectrum Cons: Slightly smaller yields, need to re-adjust every now and then
- Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL)
Pros: Cheap, Ubiquitous, Good Light Spectrum Cons: Not great for flowering, Not Strong Enough
All of these light sources produce heat, so don’t go overboard, especially in your first grow. There are a plethora of inexpensive setups available, and it’s easy for a novice to get overwhelmed. However, you should be OK if you stick to the “600W per 5sq.ft.” guideline.
Another thing to consider is that lamps (especially HPS and MH) must be replaced every year, while LED lights are frequently longer lasting. Lamp replacement increases your setup’s financial and environmental costs, so you should think carefully about whether you want to keep it. If you’d like to learn more about lighting, go here.
It’s preferable to have a few plants as possible under a single light from a practical standpoint. Of course, there’s no point in overcrowding the canopy since the light won’t be able to reach all of them. Giving your plants enough space will help them develop and produce more.
If you decide to use older-generation lights, get ones that include hoods and ballasts that can switch from HPS to MH bulbs and vice versa. Depending on the development of your plants, different bulb types may be required at various times.
We stated at the beginning of this essay that creating a grow room entails a significant time and financial investment. Do not try to save money by buying a low-quality lighting system, as it may backfire in the end.
Necessary Appliances and Gadgetsvel
- Cooling thermostat;
- Lighting control relay and timer;
- High temperature shut down;
- Reliable max/min temp and relative humidity monitor;
- Humidity controller;
- Night/day temperature control;
- Carbon dioxide monitor & control;
- Extension Cords (always useful).
Step by Step
- Step 1 – Decide where you want to build your grow room. It might be a basement, a spare room, a cellar, or even your closet. Technically, an old PC tower may be turned into a little garden.
- Step 2 – Before you start tearing up the walls, take some time to plan out your grow room layout. A well-designed system can help you detect potential problems before you begin construction, saving you time and money. Set reasonable objectives for the amount of yield you want to produce and how you intend to do so. Make a shopping list that is as close as possible to what you require using the information in this article.
- Step 3 – Remove anything from the room, including chairs, carpets, clothing, curtains, refrigerators, or weapons. You don’t want ANYTHING to get in the way of your grow area’s creation. If you must organize a yard sale
- Step 4 – Make sure your room is well-lit. Make sure that no light can get in, even on a hot August day, regardless of the time of day or month. If there are any windows in the area, cover them with curtains or blinds from the inside and seal them shut (to prevent insulation loss). You don’t need to be seen messing around with your indoor crop!
- Step 5 – Insulate the room (walls, flooring, and ceiling) using a reflective material that is appropriate for your needs (read the guide first). When covering the walls’ edges, try to avoid sharp angles. Instead, aim for smooth curves that reflect light better. You will get the most light reflection by doing so, resulting in more food for your plants. More food = bigger plants = higher yields!
- Step 6 – Install both a ventilation and an exhaust fan to increase air circulation and aid in temperature and humidity management. To discover how powerful these need to be, see the relevant chapter of this lesson. There you will also find more information about odor control and stealth, as well as the use of both systems for optimal air flow throughout your grow room.
Installing a circulation fan: Air circulation in your grow room should be one of the most important concerns. When it comes to circulation, oscillating fans can be useful. They’re inexpensive, widely accessible, and simple to transport (which will be necessary in various phases of the growth process).
Installing a vent fan: On average, you’ll need at least one. This aspect might be difficult to accomplish and necessitates careful preparation. Installing a vent generally entails a lot of handiwork. Locate a location where air naturally escapes if possible (4, 6, 8, 10, 12 inches = 10, 20, 30cm). Make sure your carbon deodorizer is securely mounted! You don’t want anyone else to smell you out!
- Step 7 – If you can get water to your grow room, you’re set. If that’s not an option, at the very least ensure there is some sort of faucet accessible. Marijuana plants require a lot of hydration, and carrying buckets of water around every time you want to water them can be tiring.
- Step 8 – Install the lights and ballasts. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and try to hang the lights in your farmhouse grow room. In the long run, make an effort to connect the connections so that they may be altered if necessary. Depending on their growth stage, your plants will need the lights at various heights, so this aspect might save you a lot of time in the end.
- Step 9 – Have you forgotten to make a shopping list at the conclusion of the previous section? Keep all of these electronics in one place so that you can check them periodically. As a result, you will be able to detect any issues promptly and take appropriate action. Cover any little blimps with duct tape; even the tiniest disruption in the plants’ dark cycle might end your crop.
- Step 10 – Install your crops in their containers. We strongly advise new gardeners to use the soil medium rather than hydroponics. It is far less difficult and time-consuming than hydroponics. You can attempt something more difficult after a few successful harvests. If you’ve made up your mind, however, always adhere to the directions while attempting to cultivate hydroponically. I am not going on about aeroponics at this point for new growers! If you’re a beginner, this isn’t the stage for you yet. However, you may learn more about aeroponic farming here.
- Step 11 – Germinate your seeds (or make your clones) and carefully set them in your growing medium. Your plants will be ready to harvest in three to four months!
Read More: Best Indoor Hydroponic Garden Kits
- Clean your reflective material often. Photosynthesis is what feeds your plants and you want to give them as much light as possible;
- If you use CO2 supplement inside your grow room, be sure to insulate it well and watch out for leakage;
- Clean your grow room often. Dust, rotten leaves, and even minor stains can be potentially harmful to your plants;
- Like a pilot mid-flight, consult your instruments often. Growing involves quite a lot of detective work and you want to keep all the variables in check;
- Chances are, you will be using lots of electronics. Do not ignore safety regulation and ensure that they do not draw more power than your network can handle. Try to use longer cables instead of connecting many shorter ones. Power failures are not that uncommon;
- If you don’t feel very confident about this, start small or invest in a grow box/tent first. By studying their architecture, you’ll get an idea on how to eventually build a larger grow room;
- Make sure that light reaches all of your plants evenly;
- Do not get frustrated if things don’t work out at your first grow. It is perfectly normal and the effects are most likely reversible!
Before you plant your seeds
Finally, don’t forget to conduct a test run! Turn everything on and make sure that all components are in good working order. To ensure that all of your fixtures operate together, turn on all of the lights and fans. Fill a pan with water and leave it where your plants would be to see if transpiration occurs. Allow everything to run for a few hours before drawing any conclusions.
Check your equipment for any anomalies in the humidity. After that, leave the lights on their own for half an hour to see whether the space is getting hotter and more humid without ventilation. You’re ready to put your seedlings/clones into the room after that.
Place the seeds in a single layer, trying to spread them equally beneath the canopy. Young seedlings should not be placed too close to HID lights. 600W lamps should be at least 24” (60cm) above them. You may construct your very first grow room following this fundamental tutorial. Granted, it will not be the most beautiful setup you had in mind, but it will enable you to cultivate your own plants. After all, practice makes perfect, and nowhere is this more evident than when it comes to marijuana cultivation.