- Whether you’re growing sweet peppers (also referred to as bell peppers) or if you’re growing hot peppers, the growing instructions are essentially the same for either type of pepper
- If you’re growing your peppers from seed, you’ll have far more variety choices than if you purchase pepper starts from a garden center
- When planting peppers in Northern climates its a very good idea to get an early start
- We typically plant our peppers indoors under grow lights around 2 months before our last frost; this produces better results due to the longer growing season for your peppers
- It’s the best practice to grow your peppers in an area with full sun
- Shade or partial shade will hurt your plants’ productivity as well as the flavor of your peppers
- Add plenty of compost to your soil
- Manure may also be necessary, but be careful not to create excessive nitrogen. Peppers are sensitive and the resulting factor will be outstanding foliage with less-than-outstanding pepper production
- Both sweet peppers (often referred to as bell peppers) and hot peppers follow the same rules of care
- If you want your seeds to germinate optimally, soil temperatures should be in the 75F-85°F (optimum 85°F)
- If you’ve purchased seeds, they’ll usually last for up to two years if stored in a cool, dry location
- Soak pepper seeds before planting to accelerate germination
- Place seeds in a glass a few hours or until seeds sink to the bottom
- Some recommend planting your seeds in individual peat pots to avoid disturbing the roots later
- We have had success planting in flats and transplanting one time to larger pots
- Transplant only one time indoors due to the sensitivity of the root system
- Plant three seeds per pot (or cell)
- Once two true leaves have developed, observe which plant is strongest. Clip the other two at ground level
- If you are growing your peppers in a sunny window be sure they have access to enough lighting and warmth. These plants need a very minimum of 10 hours of light (artificial or natural) daily for proper growth. 14-16 hours is recommended.
- Once the third true leaf develops, peppers can handle night temperatures as low as 55°F but you do not want the soil temperture to drop below 60°F
- A two week “hardening off” period (taking your plants outside during the daytime) will keep your plants from any climatic shock upon being transplanted to your garden
- The slightly lower temperatures will increase flower and fruit production.
- Pepper plants can be transplanted to the garden when night temperatures dip no lower than 55°F and plants are 4-6” in height (around 2-3 weeks after frost)
- In cooler climates, pre-warm soil with a plastic cover and mulch to maintain warmth and moisture
- If possible, transplant peppers to garden on a cloudy day or provide temporary shade to prevent scorching
- Space plants close together, (12″ to 15” apart– hot peppers need less space than sweet peppers)
- Peppers like to “hold hands” with their foliage touching; this helps support the plants and prevents sun scald
- Weeds growing close to plants should be pulled by hand
- Finally, peppers respond well to periodical watering with compost tea, as well as a bi-weekly application of organic foliar spray
- Growing peppers need moist conditions for germination as well as throughout the growing season
- Watering should be consistent and even; allowing the soil to dry out can change the flavor of your peppers
- Keep peppers from growing where tomatoes and eggplant have previously grown
- Tomatoes and eggplant are members of the nightshade family and are prone to the same diseases as peppers
- As soon as your peppers are ready to use and before they are ripe, pick a few. This will signal the plant to produce more fruit
- Pick individual peppers as they ripen throughout the season
- At On The Green Farms, we prefer to store our harvested peppers by either freezing or drying
- To freeze, simply wash the peppers, cut up into desired pieces or slices, removing the inner core and seeds. Place in Zip-loc bags and store in the freezer
- To dry, follow the same instructions for washing and cutting
- Pieces should not touch each other on dehydrator drying racks
- Be certain the meaty pieces are dry all the way through
- Drying usually takes 24 hours
- To protect from cutworms, place a cardboard collar around the base of each stem and push it at least 1” into the ground
- “Hand-picking” is a good option for pest like the pepper weevil
- Pepper weevils feasts on the blossoms causing deformed and discolored fruit
- Adult pepper maggots feed on the insides of the fruit causing the pepper to rot and drop off
- A floating row cover will minimize insect populations
- Serious infestations call for more drastic measures and can be controlled with Pyrethrins, a natural organic compound derived from the Chrysanthemum which acts as a lethal internal poison to most insects
- Planting your peppers in a different location each planting cycle is your best defense against most pepper problems